Beer Production in Cottonera
- Warren J Bugeja
- Mar 28
- 7 min read
Although the ancient Egyptians were already drinking beer brewed from fermented barley around 5000 years ago, beer drinking in Malta only caught on in the 19th century when the islands were a British colony. Beer was mainly imported to supply the Royal Navy and British garrisons stationed in Malta. The Maltese preferred to drink wines and spirits, but in time, their drinking habits began to be influenced by the servicemen they rubbed shoulders with, especially in the harbour areas.
In 1880, a new brewery, Simonds Brewery, based in Reading, England, established an
office in Malta. The beer was brewed in the UK and imported into Malta in barrels and then syphoned into glass bottles. During the bottling process, the bottlers retained the original brand name of the beer. Ale, stout and ginger beer were also bottled in stoneware, such as the beverages produced by Charles Julius in Strada Zecca (Old Mint Street), Valletta. During this period, the people of Cottonera were quick to seize business opportunities, working with both local and foreign partners. For example, in 1889, Annunziata, the widow of Paolo Portelli, originally from Għarb and living in Valletta, ran a wine and spirits business with Giuseppe and Antonio Formosa of Cospicua. Their shop, called Formosa e Compagna, was located at 70 Strada Mercanti in Valletta. Around the same period, Stannus Geoghegan, a brewer from Dublin who had been in the trade since at least 1872, moved to Floriana by 1894. By 1895, he joined forces with
Antonio Despott of Cospicua to brew stout and ale. Their partnership was formalised on March 15, 1895, in the records of Notary Achille Micallef. Francesco Cuschieri, the founder of Fco. Cuschieri & Co., was a well-known agent for Simonds Ale & Stout and Dreher Lager Beer in the Cottonera area. His business operated from 18 Strada Marina in Senglea, while he also maintained a store at 29 Strada Vittoria, just a short distance away.
Very often, the same businessmen who traded in alcohol also imported tobacco. One notable example was Antonio and Michele Callus of Cospicua, who are mentioned in an 1888 list of cigar and tobacco manufacturers in Malta. The Callus family owned a cigar factory and a store in Cospicua, located next to the Convent of the Discalced Carmelites.
Captain A. Caruana, a prominent figure in he alcohol and tobacco trade, also hailed from Cospicua. His mother was related to the Callus family. Starting with a shop in his hometown, he later opened a second outlet in Valletta’s Kingsway (now Republic Street) after achieving early success. Caruana was also involved in bottling beer, including a popular brand called ‘Youngers’, which locals affectionately referred to as Ta’ Youngers.
A 1905 advert in the now defunct newspaper ‘Malta Għada Tagħna’ (no. 962) promotes ‘Il-Birra ta’ Burton’ a beer bottled by ‘Ind Coope & Co LD’ Maltese depo located at 20, Strada Reale, Valletta.
Former President of Malta, Ugo Mifsud Bonnici, also has a family connection to the Callus brothers of Cospicua, who were involved in beer production. His grandmother’s sister was married to one of the brothers. The Callus family owned a cinema in Cospicua called The Windsor, managed by brothers Lino and Victor Callus. They lived at the corner of Strada San Giorgio and Strada Toro in Cospicua but relocated to Birkirkara during World War II.
Family descendants recall that the patriarch of the family was Michelangelo Callus. Could he be the same Michele Callus who ran a cigar factory in Cospicua? The mystery deepened in 2017 when Prof. Simon Mercieca, a historian at the University of Malta, received an intriguing email from Andrzej Kuczkowski, an archaeologist in Koszalin, Poland. Andrzej had discovered an old beer bottle during excavations in northwestern Poland. The bottle was embossed with the words M. Callus & Sons Cospicua.
Andrzej asked if Prof. Mercieca could shed light on the bottle’s origins. Did the "M" stand for Michele or Michelangelo Callus? And how had the bottle travelled so far? The inscription suggested the Callus family brewed beer themselves in Cospicua, not just bottled it.
One theory ties the bottle’s journey to World War I. German prisoners of war were held at Verdala Barracks in Cospicua, and Koszalin, then part of Germany, may have sent soldiers who became prisoners. As Prof. Mercieca suggests, a former prisoner could have brought the bottle back to Koszalin as a souvenir, adding another layer to the Callus family’s fascinating legacy.
Residents of Cospicua recall two main beverage factories from years gone by. One was located beneath St Joseph’s Conservatory, where beer was brewed and later distributed as the proprietors shifted their focus to sales. The other factory, near St Helen’s Gate, produced what was likely ginger ale. The family behind it became known locally as Tal-Ginger, a nickname that stuck with them.
In 1906, Alfonso Borin was the proprietor of ‘Neptune Machinery’ an ‘Aerated Water Manufacturer and Beer Bottler’ plant and shop located at 52 Strada Miratore, Vittoriosa. Beverages sold at the premises included soda-water, spirits and ginger beer. Alfonso resided at 27 Strada Brittanica. Significantly, the beer logo with the Neptune theme on the ginger beer stoneware bottles was adopted in 1928 by Simonds Farsons LimitedThe ginger ale (and soft-drink) bottles from the 1920s and 1930s were distinctive, sealed with a glass marble. In Malta, these bottles were called Tal-Boċċa—boċċa being the Maltese word for marble. Opening these bottles required a special tool, and children often repurposed the marbles inside for games.
Before World War II, another beer
merchant operated in Bormla. He lived in the upper part of Oratory Street, where it intersects with Strada San Giorgio. His name was Indri Cilia, and he partnered in business with the father of physician Lelinu Licari. These local entrepreneurs played a key role in shaping the beverage trade in Cottonera during this period.
In 1928, a Maltese businessman named Lewis Farrugia, along with his sons, introduced the locally brewed Farsons Pale Ale. The name Farsons came from a clever fusion of ‘Farrugia’ and ‘sons,’ representing the family business. Initially, the company, based in Hamrun, found success quenching the thirst of British troops stationed on the island. Soon after, recognising the advantages of collaboration over competition, Farsons joined forces with their rivals, Simonds, to form a new entity: Simonds Farsons Limited. Farsons Pale Ale made its debut on April 19, 1928, during the traditional feast of St George in Qormi. The beer bottle featured the iconic image of the statue of Neptune, now found in one of the courtyards of the Grand Master’s Palace in Valletta, on its front label. The striking illustration earned Farsons’ beer the nickname il-birra tal-Ggant—the Giant’s Beer.
In Cospicua, Farsons stored its beer next to St Therese Convent in a building believed to be one of the old magazines constructed in the 18th century by the Order of St John to supply their ships-of-the-line, known locally as vascelli. The beer distribution in Cospicua was handled by Ta’ Żabbett, chandlers from Tarxien, who transported the beer in wooden crates in horse-drawn carts.
Around the same time, a prominent Maltese banker, Marquis John Scicluna, joined the brewing industry. He had acquired a company with exclusive rights to produce Bavarian-style lagers in Malta and quickly seized the opportunity. In 1929, just before the stock market crash that triggered the Great Depression, Marquis launched what would become a Maltese icon: Cisk Pilsner.
The name Cisk comes from the Maltese word for ‘cheque,’ a nickname given to Marquis’ father, who had popularised the use of bank cheques in Malta during the 19th century.
During World War II, beer bread was often eaten by British servicemen and the Maltese who had contact with them.
In 1948, following the turbulence of the Great Depression and World War II, the Cisk brand merged with Simonds Farsons to form Simonds Farsons Cisk Limited. This union laid the foundation for the enduring success of Cisk as Malta’s leading beer brand, winning many prestigious awards along the way. For instance, in 1980, Cisk secured the Gold and Dual Championship award for both the Lager and Best Overall categories at the UK’s Brewex Competition, whilst in 1998, Cisk Export won its first Gold award in the Australian International Beer Awards.
In recent years, a new wave of inventive Maltese brewers has been experimenting with craft beers, creating exciting blends and flavours for modern tastes. Independent craft breweries have popped up in villages and towns all over Malta and Gozo, amongst them ‘Lord Chambray’ in Xewkija, ‘The Huskie Craft Beer Company’ in Qrendi, ‘The Brew’ in Sliema, and ‘Stretta Craft Beer’ in Valletta
Who knows—maybe Cottonera will join the brewing scene once again!
Written for Tales of Kottonera
Written with reference to:
Arkivju Lorenzo Zahra, Soċjeta’ Storiko u Kulturali Vittoriosa, Vittoriosa Memoralia Snajja u Kummerċ Vol 13.
‘Consumption Patterns in Malta: 1919-1939: a Study of British Dependency and Maltese Consumption’ by Dylan Cachia. Bachelor’s Dissertation, University of Malta, 2019.
‘Food under Siege: A Historical Sociology Exploration into Food and Hunger during World War II and its Effect on the Maltese Population’ by Mariella Farrugia. Master’s Dissertation, University of Malta, 2013.
‘A Functional Analysis of Glass from an Officers' Mess, Malta’ by Russell Palmer. Malta Archaeological Review, 2012-2013, Issue 11
‘Maltese Exports from 1850 to 1914’ by George Christopher Pisani. Bachelor’s Dissertation, University of Malta, 2020.
‘Commercial Partnerships in Late Nineteenth and Early Twentieth Century Malta’ by Michael Refalo. Journal of Maltese History, 1(2), 54-80, 2009.
‘Victualling of Malta-Based Navies’ by Charles Savona-Ventura. Published on Dec 7, 2013. Accessed December 2024: https://issuu.com/charlessaven/docs/victualling
‘Meet the Craft Breweries Revolutionising Malta’s Pint-Swilling Culture’ by Rebecca Anastasi. Accessed December 2024: https://www.guidememalta.com/en/meet-the-craft-breweries-revolutionising-malta-s-pint-swilling-culture
‘From Cospicua to Poland, An Intriguing Historic Culinary Mystery’ By Jesmond Bonnici. Accessed December 2024: https://www.facebook.com/3CitiesTaste/posts/-from-cospicua-to-poland-an-intriguing-historic-culinary-mystery/2590986794543820/
‘Cospicua’s Beer in Poland’ by Simon Mercieca. Accessed December 2024: https://www.independent.com.mt/articles/2018-01-01/blogs-opinions/Cospicua-s-beer-in-Poland-6736183112
‘Cospicua's Beer and First World War German prisoners’ by Simon Mercieca. Accessed December 2024: https://www.independent.com.mt/articles/2018-12-03/blogs-opinions/Cospicua-s-Beer-and-First-World-War-German-Prisoners-6736200252
‘Farsons Timeline’ Farsons.com. Accessed December 2024: https://www.farsons.com/en/timeline#date01
‘Our Story’ Cisk.com. Accessed December 2024: https://www.cisk.com/age-gate?origin=https://www.cisk.com/our-story
‘Bottle Fridays’ Raċanċ (A trip down memory lane) Facebook Page. Accessed December 2024: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=558307157713528&id=457228297821415&set=a.458504781027100
Comments